Did I Pay Too Much For Catalytic Converter Replacement


Question: Did I Pay Too Much For Catalytic Converter Replacement,
I brought my 2002 Jetta GLS to a shop today and they said they could put it in a universal one for $300 total (includes parts and labor to cut and weld). They originally wanted me to pay $350, but I talked them down. I wasn’t planning on having it replaced then and there, but I knew it had a catalytic converter inefficiency. I decided to have it done at $300.

I was reading around and people are saying that they had theirs installed for $150 including parts and labor (universal)? Did I get ripped off?
I live in the suburbs of Chicago and they replaced it in about 15 min.
It is a 2.0L
Yeah, I noticed the direct fit systems are mostly around $250…that is pretty decent.

Universal converters are $80-$150….so I was basically paying $150 for a 15 min. job? I mean, the part cost on my invoice was $283.00…did they markup the hell out of this part?

Best answer for Did I Pay Too Much For Catalytic Converter Replacement

TOO BAD! Converters on VW cars RARELY go bad at amy mileage. What has happened is that your air/fuel mixture went off kilter and clogged it up! Don’t be surprised when the new one does the same thing. You wasted the one on the replacement unless the factory one ROTTED from rust or got smashed up. THe INSIDE will clean themselves up with time. <<<>> Have your throttle body and your IDLE AIR CONTROL vALVE cleaned up to showroom clean. THe IAC adds AIR to the misture and fine tunes the engine. A clean IAC PREVENTS o2 sensor problems and converter clogs. ON VW’s it is even MORE critical as the THROTTLE BODY has LOTS of expensive electronics built into it. Like $1000 worth of stuff. ALso VW/AUDI uses optical fibers to cause THREEE computers to talk to each other and send out fine tuning signals. ANYWAYS< you did NOT really need that converter, and it will jsut clog up again IF the IAC and T body are not cleaned up to SHOWROOM. USE GUMOUT or THROTTLE BODY spray to do this. ALSO your vw REQUIRES special oils ONLY that meet the higher 502/505 spec numbers. This means MOBIL ONE 0W-40 and a few others and NO VALVOLINE ever.Get a FULL motor flush first. THis removes the junk from the piston rings and valvee heads and piston tops. THEN the good oil will CONTINUE TO CLEAN As you drive it. YOu should TRY to get the OLD ONE BACK as the new CHEAP ONE will NOT work as well. THe ORIGINAL was about $750 or os, probably and the replacment willc ost you MORE$ in FUEL and in POWER! TOO BAD!!! Good luck anyways.

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